The Great Martini Divide

• Bangulzai

  14 Apr 09, 16:59

  The Great Martini Divide

  
  Are we paying too much for cocktails? By Zaki Jufri, I-S Magazine

  Other than being discerning shoppers and diners, Singaporeans are beginning to be astute drinkers too. As we become better travelled and more knowledgeable, we naturally demand more out of service and product offerings. No longer do we go to bars and just ask for a pint of beer or a standard house pour. We now expect something premium that we can take our time to enjoy. That is why cocktails are the drinks du jour. More bars are starting to upgrade their drinks list, throwing in a few classics along with the multitude of martinis and modern creations in a bid to attract a new wave of savvy drinkers. And a number of them, especially some new ones are devoting themselves to just offering cocktails on their menu. Of course, premium comes at a price. The general consensus here among Singaporeans is that cocktails are expensive. Why is that? And does the quality of the drink reflect the high prices? I-S finds out.

  Costly Concoctions
  An online check by I-S on cocktails prices from bars in Tokyo, Hong Kong, New York and London reveal that prices here are relatively higher if one was to compare them dollar-to-dollar. A cocktail at a hip bar in New York City costs around US$12 while one in London goes for about £8. One in a Japanese bar will usually be priced at 800¥ whereas a bar in Hong Kong averages around HK$80. But, prices of cocktails here can go anywhere from $15 to $27 depending on which bar you go to, definitely more than the places stated above.

  “Singapore is one of the most expensive places to drink in Asia!” says Sam Jeveons, mixologist and bar consultant. Jeveons, who is now based in Taipei and is also the brand ambassador in Asia for Polish vodka Belvedere, believes that consumers are frustrated because sometimes the price doesn’t reflect the quality of the drink and the service. He was also quick to add that if people here accept the fact that nightlife and drinking here is pricey, then they should demand quality for the money that they’re paying.

  Jeveons feels that most Singaporean consumers are also paying a high price for low quality spirits and what he considers too many “sweet, syrupy and artificial” flavors. He also concedes that bar operators are also to blame for the lack of quality in their offerings as they tend to want to maximise profits and cut costs. “This is when the outlet, the bartender and the management might let the customer down. You have to understand that drinking cocktails will cost the customer quite a bit of money and I wish that more bars here would have the initiative to put quality ingredients into their cocktails so at least customers will get value for money.”

  Erik Hon, a regular cocktail drinker and business development manager agrees that cocktail prices here are quite exorbitant. “Cocktails here are generally very expensive and most of them definitely do not hit the mark in terms of quality and taste. Sixteen dollars for a martini and a bad one at that is indeed ridiculous. I can get a pint of Hoegaarden for that price and I know it’ll taste good,” Hon said. “I’ve been to bars in London and Paris, and for the price of about £8 or €10, I can get a very good cocktail,” he added.

  Getting High
  One of the main reasons for the poor quality of cocktails here is the price of alcohol. Governments everywhere have been taxing alcohol almost from the moment it was produced on a commercial scale. The recent tax tweak on excise duty for liquor in Singapore—on the basis of alcohol content—saw a slight reduction in duty rates for most types of liquor, but the tax is still high. Liquor is now taxed based on a flat rate of $70 per liter of alcohol. A 750 milliliter bottle of vodka with 40 percent alcohol will be slapped an excise tax of $21—only $1.50 less than previously. On the other hand, this reduction doesn’t really translate to lower prices at the bars. Bar operators have and are still charging $10 to $15 (depending on the brand) for that 30 milliliters of spirit that goes into your cocktail, and some go as far as passing off mediocre brands of vodka for premium ones and charging a high price.

  The other reason is the amount of time it takes to make a cocktail. Time is money, whether a bar is paying its staff by the month, week or hour. It is definitely more work for bartenders to mix a cocktail than it is for them to pour a pint of beer or a glass of wine. For beer, all a bartender has to do is get a glass, put the glass under the draught, pull the tap and then serve—for all of two to three minutes for that perfect premium beer. When it comes to cocktails, bartenders have to remember cocktail recipes, the methods of mixing and so forth. All the measuring, stirring, shaking and muddling of fruit means it can take a bartender more than three minutes to prepare and serve your drink. And, the bars I-S spoke to say that cocktails make up only about a quarter of their total nightly takings (the rest come from beer, wines and house pours) and looking at the economies of scale, it’s no wonder bars charge more for cocktails.
  
  Quantity—or Quality?
  But there is another reason why cocktails often come at a premium price. Since its creation in the 19th century, the cocktail has often been associated with class and wealth. Gary Tan, Loof’s marketing manager tells us that cocktails are priced that way because they’re perceived as “high-end” or “luxury” drinks and they are not something that can be premixed. According to Tan, cocktails made with premium brands and served in attractive glassware make a statement about the consumer in much the same way as designer clothing or a nice watch.

  And increasingly bartenders are choosing to use only top quality ingredients in their cocktails to deliver luxurious concoctions. Cocktails are only as good as what go into them and the best ones are crafted using the freshest ingredients, resulting in drinks that are more flavorful and easy on the palate. More bartenders are not only using freshly squeezed juices in their repertoire and combining them with some of the world’s finest spirits; they are also making their own syrups, infusions and purees. All this of course pushes the price of cocktails up even more. Because while using the freshest possible ingredients seem to be the path to creative libation, it is also not very cost efficient. Fruit needs to be procured and juiced on a near daily basis, and wastage can be high.

  While really good cocktails require more quality ingredients—hence have higher price tags—than cheap ones, they don’t necessarily cost more if drunk properly, says Edward Chia, co-managing director of Ublues Group, adding that he’d rather see people enjoy one or two excellent cocktails than seven or eight run-of-the-mill ones that just get them drunk. The Ublues Group, which manages live music chain Timbre recently opened Klee. Located at Wessex Estate in Portsdown Road, the “speak-easy” style bar aims to lift the cocktail culture in Singapore by offering customers bespoke and premium cocktails using the freshest of ingredients available.
  
  Get What You Pay For
  There are some though who think that cocktails in Singapore are priced as they should be. Ublue’s Chia, for instance, doesn’t think cocktails are all that expensive. He believes that they’re actually value for money, “I want to dispute the perception that cocktails are expensive. If you look at Singapore alone, there are beers here that cost $16 a pint, and that I think is expensive. But that price for a cocktail is reasonable, because cocktails require extra attention to detail, and should be priced proportionately,” Chia explains. Bars have to recoup cost of preparation, labor and ingredients that go into a cocktail. Other factors that justify the higher price of cocktails are, according to Loof’s Tan, “glassware, the skill of the bartender and the presentation.”

  Industry observer Yvonne Phua of Asian Hospitality media shares Chia’s  sentiment that customers are paying for the whole package. The publisher of moods.sg, a trade publication of the bar and hospitality industry says, “A $16 or $20 martini must meet the premium drinks criteria of being served in a premium venue, made by a bartender who knows and uses his ingredients in a respectful manner and makes it a point to find out that the drink he created is to the customers liking.” And there are a number of bars here that are stepping up and giving customers’ exactly this—good quality cocktails that are value for money. Belvedere’s Jeveon agrees. “There’s been a surge of high quality places like One Rochester, 1 Twenty Six, Loof, Astor Bar at the St Regis Hotel and Klee. They are producing what I consider worldclass cocktails and if you put them in the world’s best cocktail capitals, I’m very sure they’ll do exceptionally well,” he says.

  Phua, for one, would like to see a day when people look beyond the prices and start appreciating the fine art of bartending and cocktail drinking. “There are bars out there who offer exceptional drinks; if consumers cannot see the value in that, they can head to the nearest hawker center to drink. Last thing that they need are customers who love their creations and bitch about the price they pay for it. You can’t expect to own a Mercedes at the price of a Skoda,” she quips.
  For now, cocktails fans have to concede to that the price of cocktails will continue to be significant as alcohol and labor costs remain high. But if more cocktail bars start providing good value for money, and the new wave of cocktail drinkers starts growing, prices may decrease as bars try to stay competitive. That said, if bars continue to make great cocktails, not necessarily newfangled ones but classic ones too, and do it better than anywhere else using the best ingredients, we as consumers will have a second drink no matter what the price.

  Fluid Foundation

  I-S’s guide to kick ass cocktails in Singapore. We show you what to drink and where.
  
  Astor Bar (Lobby, St Regis Singapore, 29 Tanglin Rd., 6506-6888)
  Chilli Padi Mary
  What: Vodka, tomato juice, lemon juice, lemongrass, chilli padi and old Chinese ginger.
  In the mix: Frank Petiot invented the Bloody Mary at the King Cole Bar in the St. Regis New York in 1930, and since then every St Regis bar throughout the globe has their version of it. Singapore’s contribution is a “modern and contemporary” adaptation which substitutes chilli padi, Chinese old ginger and lemon grass for Worcestershire and Tabasco, and is not for the faint-hearted.
  Price: $19

  Suzette
  What: Belvedere Pomarancza vodka, Grand Marnier and flambéed Californian oranges.
  In the mix: Think of this like cocktail version of the classic dessert, the Crepe Suzette. Served hot with a side of mini crepes, this bewitching brew is definitely ideal for those with a palate for citrus as the deep orange-y flavors of the vodka and Grand Marnier balance perfectly well together.
  Price: $22

  Klee (#01-04 Wessex Estate, 5B Portsdown Rd., 6479-6911)
  Flirtini
  What: Smirnoff Black or Belvedere vodka, Chambord (French black raspberry liqueur), raspberries and pineapple juice.
  In the mix: True to its name, the Flirtini teases you with fresh tangy raspberries and pineapple juice that’s squeezed right in front of you. If you find the flavors too sharp for your liking, swirl the straw and let the Chambord (French black raspberry liqueur) add a tinge of sweetness to the mix.
  Price: $18/$20

  Klee’s Mojito
  What: Bacardi rum, lime juice, sugar, mint leaves, soda water and lager.
  In the mix: A modern twist to the classic Cuban drink. The mixologists at Klee top off the long concoction with a layer of Kirin beer for that dash of bitterness to an otherwise sweet drink.
  Price: $18

  Loof (#03-07 Odeon Towers, 331 North Bridge Rd., 6338-8035)
  The Gummiberry
  What: Forest berries, gin, Cointreau and meringue.
  In the mix: Tooth-achingly sweet but absolutely delish, the Gummiberry certainly tickled our taste buds with its unique blend of forest berries and a hint of Cointreau. The flambéed meringue that tops everything off is a nice touch to the presentation.
  Price: $17

  Tom Yum
  What: Vodka infused with Tom Yum spices, lime juice, coconut liquor and soda water.
  In the mix: A refreshing twist to your favorite Thai soup. Made of vodka steeped with Tom Yum spices, the Tom Yum adds that kick to those who can take the heat, while lime juice and coconut liquor calms everything down. Perfect drink when under the sun.
  Price: $18

  CAMP (8D Dempsey Rd., 6479-3511)
  Jamaican Black Strap Buck
  What:  Rum, orange bitters, sultanas, star anise, molasses, lime juice, spiced syrup and ginger beer.
  In the mix: A contemporary twist on an obscure classic and homage to brown bagging, the Jamaica Black Strap Buck is one of our favorite cocktails. The spicy and sweet concoction comes in a wee brown bagged bottle. 
  Price: $18

  Prohibition Long Island Iced Tea Party
  What: Bombay Sapphire gin, Absolut vodka, Havana Club Especial rum, Sauza Horintos tequila, Cointreau and fresh lemon juice. 
  In the mix: Forget what you already know about this lethal concoction when you order it here at CAMP. The bartenders take you back to the time when it was originally made—during Prohibition, when the sale of alcohol was banned in the US, and people used whatever bootlegged brew was available. CAMP’s version is delightfully refreshing and tangy, just the way it’s meant to be. It’s served in a teapot with cups for four and a jug of cola.
  Price: $55 (serves four)

  Majestic Bar (41 Bukit Pasoh Rd., 6534-8800)
  Kampong Freeze
  What: Dark rum, advocaat, Cointreau, banana and Thai honey mandarin juice.
  In the mix: This concoction reminds us of a banana chendol with a hint of rum and orange liqueur for that extra kick.
  Price: $15
  
  Thumper (1/F Goodwood Park Hotel, 22 Scotts Rd., 6737-3845)
  Tigerito
  What: Strawberries, lime juice, sweet and sour mix, mint leaves, Chambord and Tiger beer.
  In the mix: We love this one. The Tigerito is definitely for those who like sweet things.
  Price: $17

  Atrium Bar at Morton’s
  (4/F Mandarin Oriental Singapore, 5 Raffles Blvd., 6339-3740)
  Heavenly Pomegranate Mortini
  What: Vodka, pomegranate syrup, passion fruit puree and Heavenly foam.
  In the mix: Pomegranate is the cocktail world’s latest “in” ingredient. Here, tangy pomegranate syrup and passion fruit puree blend terrifically with the Heavenly foam’s (an infusion of Grand Marnier and passion fruit puree, lime juice, egg whites and sweet-and-sour mix) fresh tartness.
  Price: $27

  Ballymoons Spirits Bar
  (#01-06/08 Orchard Hotel Shopping Arcade, 442 Orchard Rd., 6735-0400)
  Strawberry Kaffir Cosmopolitan
  What: Kaffir-lime infused vodka, strawberries and Cointreau.
  In the mix: Ballymoons recently added four new concoctions to their menu. The most noteworthy will be this tangy vodka infusion twirled with a blend of fresh strawberries with a hint of orange-y Cointreau. Simply divine.
  Price: $18

• lianamaster

  5 Jun 09, 09:05

  Good to try at least once.... hehe....