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What can an obscure autonomous republic on Europe's eastern fringe do to get world-wide attention? For the Republic of Kalmykia, the answer is a curious mix of chess, Buddhism and extraterrestrials.
Kalmykia is perhaps the most improbable offspring of the collapsed Soviet empire. An errant tribe of Mongol nomads who wandered out of Central Asia in the 17th century, the Kalmyk lived as pastoralists in relative peace on the lunar-like steppe south of Volgograd until the arrival of communism. Although Lenin's own grandmother was Kalmyk, the Bolsheviks did not spare their Buddhist monasteries from destruction nor the monks from arrest. During WWII, Stalin unleashed his furry on the Kalmyk people, deporting the entire population of 120,000 to forced labor camps in Siberia. Khrushchev allowed them to return from exile 13 years later, but by then their culture and language had been nearly erased.
Enter Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, millionaire and child chess champion. Elected as the first president of Kalmykia at the end of Soviet rule, he has filled the Kalmyk cultural vacuum with his own megalomaniacal dreams. He built a bizarre chess-themed city, and managed to make it the capital of the World Chess Federation (FIDE). International tournaments are hosted regularly and chess is mandatory in all Kalmyk schools. Next, he ordered construction of Europe's largest Buddhist temple. Kalmykia is now a regular stop on the Dalai Lama's global itinerary. Earlier this year, Ilyumzhinov grabbed headlines when he announced on Russian national television that he had been abducted by aliens in yellow suits. He also claims that chess comes from outer space. Despite the bizarre statements--or perhaps because of them--Ilyumzhinov was reelected as the head of FIDE on September 29, 2010.
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
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Women participate in a yoga class inside the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 13, 2010.
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A Buddhist monk refolds his robe inside the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
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A newlywed bride turns prayer wheels at the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
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A Buddhist monk blesses people and collects offerings inside the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
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Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
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Girls play in a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Seen in the background is a Buddhist stupa.
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Competitors take part in a chess tournament in City Chess, a newly constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Russian tourists visit the chess centre in City Chess, a newly constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A municipal employee puts away giant chess pieces under the central square of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 9, 2010.
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Horse riders prepare for a public display at the horse racing track in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 9, 2010. The riders are dressed with Soviet Red Army tunics in obserance of Victory Day, when the Soviet Union defeated Nazi Germany in WWII.
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Boys with a kite play on a monument of an old Soviet Red Army tank at the entrance of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation in May 12, 2010.
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Girls at a modelling school groom themselves in a mirror in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
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Young women from a modelling school prepare to greet the President of Vietnam before his arrival at the airport in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
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A girl makes bubbles near the neon lit pagoda in Lenin square in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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Actors perform in a theatre dance production in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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People stroll near the neon lit pagoda in Lenin square in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools thoughout the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Women take part in a military parade marking Victory Day, the day that the Soviet Union defeated Nazi Germany during WWII in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 9, 2010. Seen in the background is a statue of Lenin whose grandmother was of Kalmyk origin.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Men play chess open air chess on a massive board in Lenin Square, Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Russian army soldiers put up tents in preparation for the May 9 Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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A woman rests against a spere in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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A girl spins a Buddhist prayer wheel in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
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Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Actors prepare for a theatre dance production in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 6, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Boys play with soviet era military weapons as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People wear soviet era military uniforms as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People wear traditional Kalmyk clothing as part of Victory Day celebrations in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Head of the government of the autonomous Republic of Kalmykia, president Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is seen in Elista, Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010. Ilyumzhinov, is also the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE) and has turned the republic into a chess mecca by hosting international tournaments, building a suburb called City Chess and making chess a mandatory subject in primary schools.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People pray inside the main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a khurul, in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls are seen in a nightclub in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 7, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Competitors take part in a chess tournament in the village of Arshan Bulg in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A view from the chess centre in City Chess, a newly constructed suburb of Elista in the Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Kalmykia is known as an international chess mecca, due to the fact that its President, Kirsan Ilyumzhinov, is the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE). Chess is mandatory in primary schools though out the autonomous republic.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls play in a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010. Seen in the background is a Buddhist stupa.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Girls play on old tires in a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Head of the government of the autonomous Republic of Kalmykia, president Kirsan Ilyumzhinov is seen in Elista, Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 9, 2010. Ilyumzhinov, is also the head of the International Chess Federation (FIDE) and has turned the republic into a chess mecca by hosting international tournaments, building a suburb called City Chess and making chess a mandatory subject in primary schools.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A girl walks through a playground in the village of Arshan Bulg, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 8, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People gather around what is considered to be a sacred tree growing isolated in the steppe near Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation in May 9, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
People pray inside the main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a khurul, in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Officials wait at the airport for the President of Vietnam to arrive on the outskirts of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Buddhist minks take part in a religious service in the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
A Buddhist monk blesses a boy inside the main Buddhist temple in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Young women from a modelling school groom themselves in preparation to greet the President of Vietnam before his arrival at the airport in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
The main Buddhist temple of Elista, know locally as a khurul is seen at the end of the day in Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation on May 10, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network
Boys with a kite play on a monument of an old Soviet Red Army tank at the entrance of Elista, Republic of Kalmykia, Russian Federation in May 12, 2010.
Copyright © Tomas van Houtryve / VII Network